Written by Richard Wymarc

• asoot
• embroidery
• german
• bag

Description: Purse with Arms of John II of Brabant and Limburg and his wife Margaret of England. Wool fabric with embroidery in silk and gold thread (flat stitch) ; the back four twill damask (China , end of 13th - early 14th century) .
Origin: Europe
Period: 13th-14th century
Current location: Kerk O.L. Vrouw Geboorte, Tongeren, Belgum
Museum number: 35

Current Museum page:
http://balat.kikirpa.be/photo.php?path=G002610&objnr=40752&nr=3

Personal Observations:

Fabric count: ~32 threads per inch (computed from photograph and given dimensions)

Colors noted:
Gilt/gold/silver strip:
    Surviving black looks like a flat strip. This appears to be corroded gold or gilt strip or possibly silver.
    The extensive use of this material makes for a much brighter original result than we now see.
    For example: what is now black and lt blue stripes was originally gold and lt blue.
Silk:
    White, Yellow, Light Blue, Red, Black
    The areas of missing embroidery are assumed to be black, this fits with the nearby colors, and is reasonable based on
    experience with other pieces of the same era.

References: None
 
Images:
http://balat.kikirpa.be/photo.php?path=G002610&objnr=40752&nr=3

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y022A.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y022B.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y022C.pdf

Written by Richard Wymarc

• asoot
• embroidery
• german

Description: "Cover for crozier or "Sudarium," of loosely woven linen, with band of canvas embroidered with coloured silks in satin stitch in pattern of crosses and interlacing rectangular forms."
Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England
Museum number: 8279-1863
Object number: O318618

Current Museum page:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O318618/sudarium/

Current Museum Raw Record:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O318618

Original catalog description:
"Cover for crozier or "Sudarium," of loosely woven linen, with band of canvas embroidered with coloured silks in satin stitch in pattern of crosses and interlacing rectangular forms. At top circular-headed cap, 4 3/4in by 4 in, worked with coloured silks in short stitch with diapering, on one side lozengy, on the other checky, ground crimson and filled in with the gammadion, or ylfot; sewn to the cap are gold and silken cords of various colours. German. Late 14th centy. 2ft. 10 in. by 6 ft. ... This specimen came from the Cathedral of Halberstadt, in Saxony," (Cole: 293)

Personal Observations:
This item has four separate and different decorative panels. I was able to examine this piece personally, but unfortunately my time was limited, and other pieces took preference at the time. My notes for that day, for this piece consist of a pattern sketch of one panel and notes on colors used, for only that panel. Until I went back through my notes, I had completely forgotten I had seen it.

Fabric count :
Y-020A: 51 threads per inch, From personal observation
Y-020B: ~43 threads per inch (computed from photograph and known count of Y-020A)
Y-020C: ~28 threads per inch, left; ~32 right (computed from photograph and known count of Y-020A)

Colors noted:
Y-020A: Red and White silk
The rest: The only available photos are in B&W.

References:
Cole, Alan S. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum. London: Printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode for H.M. Stationery Off., 1888.{https://books.google.com/books?id=KRktAAAAYAAJ}
 
Images:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2011FC/2011FC6714.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y020A.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y020B.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y020C.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y020D.pdf

Written by Richard Wymarc

• asoot
• embroidery
• german
• cushion

Description: A book cushion made of linen, embroidered in wool
Origin: Sweden
Period: Late Medieval
Current location: Ärentuna parish, Uppland, Sweden
Museum number: None

Current Museum page:
http://www.himlenarhar.se/foremal/book-cushion/?lang=en

Personal Observations:

Fabric count: Unknown

Colors noted:
Red Wool
Blue Wool
Yellow Wool
Green Wool
Brown Wool

References: None
 
Images:
http://www.himlenarhar.se/content/uploads/2014/04/bokdyna2-arentuna-400.jpg
http://www.himlenarhar.se/content/uploads/2014/04/bokdyna1-arentuna-186.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y021A.pdf

Written by Richard Wymarc

• asoot
• embroidery
• german

Description: "Sudarium made of linen and embroidered orphreys, German, 1400s, with triangular velvet heading, Italian, possibly from Lucca, ca. 1400-1425\n[Velvet] Triangular velvet heading of sudarium with peacock motif"
Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England
Museum number: 8662-1863
Object number: O319133

Current Museum page:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O319133/sudarium/

Current Museum Raw Record:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O319133

Original catalog description:
"Cover for crozier, of linen, ornamented with two narrow perpendicular strips of embroidery with coloured silks in tent (or cushion) stitch, with repeating pattern of lozenge shapes. At top a cap-shaped piece of green raised velvet, figured with a bird like a peacock, perched just by a well (see similar motive in woven specimens from Lucca or Palermo of the 14th centy). At each corner of this cap is a small parti-coloured tassel, and, at the top, the short narrow loop by which it hung from the upper part of the crozier-staff. German. 15th centy. 2 ft. 2 1/2 in. by 1 ft. 8 1/2 in. ... This specimen came from the church of St. Mary, Dantzic. (Cole: 294)

Personal Observations:

Fabric count: ~36 threads per inch (computed from photograph and given dimensions)

Colors noted:
Red Silk
Dark Blue Silk
Black Silk
Green Silk
Light Blue Silk
White Silk

References:
Cole, Alan S. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum. London: Printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode for H.M. Stationery Off., 1888.{https://books.google.com/books?id=KRktAAAAYAAJ}
 
Images:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2011EN/2011EN9646.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y019A.pdf