This is a lovely item, with striking decoration and several interesting design features. Unfortunately, I have not been able to locate high-resolution images of the piece, or any details other than the limited write up on the museum site; so what is below is my best take on the piece.

Description: "Reliquary bag (bursa), Rhineland, 14th and 15th cent., Linen with silk embroidery, metal-wrapped thread"

Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Museum Schnutgen, Koln, Germany
Museum number: P 870

Current Museum page:
http://www.museum-schnuetgen.de/default.aspx?s=1412&kat=22
See also:
http://www.kulturelles-erbe-koeln.de/documents/obj/05110003


Personal Observations:
The first thing that jumps out is that this piece uses a variation of cushion stitch extensively, as well as the usual brick stitch. There is another example of cushion stitch to be seen in pattern Y-008A.

A close examination of the best photo available reveals several interesting details of construction: Most noticeably, instead of closing with a drawstring like many other examples, this bag closes with a flap and a button. It cannot be determined from the photo if the back of the bag is embroidered, but the fold over flap, and the fact that the flap is embroidered with the same pattern, upside down, suggest that this is so. The flap's bottom corners are rounded, and on the left, a bit of the bags lining is visible. The flap is secured by a what appears to be a cloth button at the center bottom of the flap. In addition, there are the remains of wax seals at the center, and left and right ends. The center seal still secures a spiral fingerloop braid of tan and green silk.

There are four tassels attached to the bag, two at the bottom corners, two 1/4 of the way down the sides of the bag. These tassels are bound in turks-head knots.

It cannot be determined from the photo whether the bag was made in two pieces stitched together, or one piece folded at the bottom. The upside-down pattern on the flap suggests the former, but is speculation. In any case, The edges of the bag (bottom, sides, and around the edge of the flap) are decorated with a double edge finishing: One a tan and green double pattern as seen in other examples (See Y-011), and a line of brown.     

Fabric count: ~50 threads per inch (computed from photograph and given dimensions)

Colors noted:
Light golden brown
Dark green
Black
Off white
Metallic gold    

References:
None
 
Images:
http://www.kulturelles-erbe-koeln.de/documents/obj/05110003/rba_d029062

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y013A.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y013B.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y013C.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y013D.pdf

Description: "Cope with silk fringe covered in embroidery depicting figures of saints undergoing various forms of martyrdom."

Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England
Museum number: 17-1873
Object number: O113500

Current Museum page:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O113500/the-hildesheim-cope-cope-unknown/

Current Museum Raw Record info:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O113500

Original catalog description:
"Cope, of canvas, embroidered with coloured silks in short stitches, taken in the same manner as those sometimes called cushion stitches. The design consists of series of circles intersecting one another so as to form six pointed star shapes separated by spaces between the points, of oval cuneiform or shuttle shape. In these small spaces are blue dragons with red wings. At the points of the star shapes are rosettes worked in gold thread and applied (applique). The star shapes are alternately filled in with red and green grounds, and each contains figures of saints undergoing various forms of martyrdom. The orphreys along the front and down the centre of the back are woven in diaper of red and gold silk with purple and green angular ornaments (fylfots) arranged in rectangular compartments. small pointed hood of canvas, embroidered with red and yellow silks in close-lying short stitches with rectangular devices is attached to the orphrey. The border is fringed with coloured silks. (Colln of the Bp. of Hildesheim).
German. 14th centy. L. 9 ft. 4 1/2 in., W. 4 ft. 9 1/2 in.
17.-1873." (Cole: 172)

Personal Observations:
I only had a short time with the cope, and it was only one of several pieces pulled out of the Museum's reserve collection, so I did not make detailed notes; but I did note colors and thread count. Worth noting is that most if not all the outlining was done in what I assume to be stem stitch in black silk, which has now disintegrated almost completely; this means that the original cartoon/design lines are visible on the ground fabric. The process seems to have been:
     1. Either draw the design on the ground fabric directly, or transfer it from a sketch.
     2. Do the outlines in stem stitch
     3. fill in the backgrounds with solid colors and the figures with patterns, as desired
    
Given the size of the cope, it almost has to be made up of several pieces, but other than the center decorative band, there are no obvious places where piecing might have been done.

Fabric count: 36 count fabric (Based on personal observation)

Colors noted (Matched to DMC sample card):
    Overall background: Green (DMC 469), Gold (DMC 729) Note: The description refers to this as red, I'm matching to the current, possibly faded color.
    Dragons: White (DMC 322), Light Blue (DMC 3747)
    
    
References:
Cole, Alan S. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum. London: Printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode for H.M. Stationery Off., 1888.{https://books.google.com/books?id=KRktAAAAYAAJ}
 
Images:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AU/2006AU7164.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FP/2012FP8835.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FP/2012FP8830.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FP/2012FP8832.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FP/2012FP8833.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FP/2012FP8834.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2011EU/2011EU4677.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FM/2012FM0570.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9364.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9365.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9366.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9367.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9368.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9369.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9370.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9371.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9372.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9373.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9374.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9375.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9376.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9377.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9378.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9379.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9381.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9383.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9385.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9387.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9388.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9398.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9400.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9401.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9402.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9403.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9404.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9405.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9406.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2012FR/2012FR9408.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y012A.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y012B.pdf

This piece is in pieces. Originally a cushion, the front and back have been separated and are displayed as separate items. The front shows a biblical scene in long-armed cross-stitch, while the back is decorated with the brick-stitch pattern shown. For completeness sake I will provide details on both pieces. In addition, there is a very similar piece preserved at the Kunstgewerbemuseum in the Kulturforum in Berlin. See http://www.doctorbeer.com/joyce/emb/westcush/westcush.htm for details. Another, similar design can be seen in Pattern Y-023

Description: "Altar cushion, German, late 14th century. Colored silks on linen"
Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England
Museum number (front): 1324-1864
Object number (front): O84955
Museum number (back): 1324A-1864
Object number (back): O318615

Current Museum page:
Front: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O84955/book-cushion-cover-unknown/
Back: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O318615/book-cushion/

Current Museum Raw Record:
Front: http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O84955
Back: http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O318615

Original catalog description:
"Cushion Cover (upon which was laid the missal at the altar during celebration of the mass), of canvas embroidered with coloured silks in cross-stitch, and figured with a twisted column canopy, beneath which is the Virgin seated and child, with standing figure of St. Joseph bearing a basket in one hand and a lily in the other. This central group is flanked on each side by two angels. The back (No. 1324a) of similar work is figured with a diaper pattern of repeated octagonal panels containing two birds with tree between them and a symmetrically-arranged flowering plant. German. Late 13th centy. 19 in. by 13 in." (Cole: 315)

Personal Observations:

Fabric count: 28 Count fabric (Based on personal observation)

Colors noted (Matched under natural light to a DMC sample card):
    White Silk (DMC 746 )
    Green Silk (DMC 320)
    Red Silk (DMC 304)
    Brown Silk (badly faded)

References:
Cole, Alan S. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum. London: Printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode for H.M. Stationery Off., 1888.{https://books.google.com/books?id=KRktAAAAYAAJ}
 
Images:
Front:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AV/2006AV2708.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2011FB/2011FB1135.jpg

Back:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2011FD/2011FD8118.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y010A.pdf

Description: "Bag, German, late 14th century. Plied white linen thread and colored silks in satin stitch on linen."
Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England
Museum number: 8313-1863
Object number: O115592

Current Museum page:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O115592/bag-unknown/

Current Museum Raw Record:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O115592

Original catalog description:
"BAG (with cords) of linen, covered with close short-stitch embroidery in crimson, yellow, and white silks, with a trellis pattern forming spaces in which are geometric devices; four of the spaces on each side are ornamented with a pelican in her piety pecking its breast, interlaced blossom devices, a curved rendering of the gammadion, and the letter M, severally, worked with gold thread stitched down. (?) German. Latter half of the 14th centy. 5 1/2 in, by 5 in. ... Probably to contain relics." (Cole: 247)

Personal Observations:

  • From the description it looks like this has gold work on each side
  • Four motifs on each side:
    • pelican in her piety - possible?
    • interlaced blossom - Possible
    • curved rendering of the gammadion - Similar but not very
    • letter 'M' - no, not seeing it.
    • it is possible the decorations are different on the unseen side
    • The unknown motif is more convincing as a pelican if rotated 90 degrees.
    • The geometric motifs are worked with four strands of gold
  • The loop cord is circular tablet woven. The technique was reverse-engineered in response to my query by Cindy Myers. The article is linked below under references.
  • The drawstrings appear to be a fingerloop braid, a double-spiral pattern. the cord is gathered where it exits the bag and the strands of the doubled cord are worked in multiple (2 wide, 2 narrow) half-flat fingerloop braids.
  • The drawstrings are poked through the bag with no reinforcing stitching around the holes
  • The decorative stitch along the seams at the sides and top:
    • In closeup it looks very much like some sort of double chain stitch, not split stitch.
    • Possibilities include:
      • Double chain stitch
      • Two tablet, woven finishing
      • Something else
  • The Embroidery:
  • The pattern lends itself very nicely to a brick-stitch interpretation. but there are problems with this:
  • Compared to other pieces, even ones in bad repair, this stitching looks melted, not rigid and even.
  • Under magnification the stitching does not match up the what would work for a regular brick-stitch; this is especially true of the white linen intersections, but can be seen throughout.       

Fabric count: 37 Count fabric (Based on personal observation)

Colors noted (Matched under natural light to a DMC sample card):
    White Linen (DMC 746 )
    Purple Silk (DMC 3721)
    Gold Silk (DMC 3045)
    Yellow Silk (DMC 725)
    
References:
Cole, Alan S. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum. London: Printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode for H.M. Stationery Off., 1888.{https://books.google.com/books?id=KRktAAAAYAAJ}

Myers, Cindy. "Tubular Tablet Weaving." Silkewerk. Web. 20 November 2015. {http://www.silkewerk.com/tabletweaving/tubular.html}.
 
Images:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AL/2006AL4570.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y011A.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y011B.pdf

Description: "Fragment with heraldic devices. German, 14th century. Silver and gilt strip and colored silks in brick and satin stitches on linen"
Origin: Germany
Period: 14th-15th century
Current location: Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England
Museum number: 8646-1863
Object number: O364060

Current Museum page:
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O364060/woven-silk-unknown/

Current Museum Raw Record:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/api/json/museumobject/O364060

Original catalog description:
"Burse (part of) of fine canvas, embroidered with violet, yellow, red, and blue silks, and strips of gold and silver tinsel in short stitches. The pattern consists of interlacing
and angular narrow bands of blackened (silver) tinsel, bordered with yellow silk. The spaces are charged severally (1) Field, gules, three lions passant, gardent, or ; (2) Field, quarterly, 1 and 4 argent, a lion rampant, gules, 2 and 3 gules, a lion rampant, or ; (3) Barry of 1 2 azure and argent, a lion rampant, gules ; (4) Field, argent, two bars sable; (5) Field, gules with bars argent. English. 13th centy. 4 3/4 in. by 3 1/2 in." (Cole: 268)

Personal Observations:

Fabric count: 51 Count fabric (Based on personal observation)

Colors noted (Matched under natural light to a DMC sample card):
    Gilt Strip    
    Silver Strip    
    All other colors badly faded

References:
Cole, Alan S. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum. London: Printed by Eyre and Spottiswoode for H.M. Stationery Off., 1888.{https://books.google.com/books?id=KRktAAAAYAAJ}
 
Images:
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2009CE/2009CE2326.jpg
http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2011FD/2011FD8316.jpg

Patterns:
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y009A.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y009B.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y009C.pdf
http://wymarc.com/images/patterns/pdf/Y009D.pdf

  1. Pattern Y-008 A Geometric Panel
  2. Pattern Y-007 A Banded Fragment
  3. Pattern Y-006 Part of a stole or maniple
  4. Pattern Y-005 Dancing Figures